Scilla is an enchanting coastal village on the west coast of Calabria – a charming fishing destination which is the jewel of the Costa Viola. It is reminiscent of famous spots on Italy’s Cinque Terre, with a patchwork of coloured houses overlooking the sweeping calm waters of the Tyrrhenian, yet is a town virtually undiscovered by tourists. Its position on the Strait of Messina, the stretch of water which connects Calabria to Sicily, offers a rich history with over 2,000 year-old traditions in fishing for sword fish.
A town straight out of myths, the ancient Greek legends say that it was home to the sea monster Scylla, one of the two monsters (alongside Charybdis) who guarded the Strait of Messina and terrorised Odysseus as he sailed the seas. Today, it’s an enchanting town to visit, with charming streets to wander, a castle to explore, a sweeping beach and extraordinary sunsets.
CHIANALEA FISHING DISTRICT
The district of Scilla’s historic centre which is nestled in the east side of the headland, curving below the Castle Ruffo, is the ancient fishing settlement of Chianalea. Home to only 350 inhabitants, it’s known as the Venice of the south. The small houses are built right up to the seafront, with windows, doors and archways that frame endless views of blue sea. Cobbled walkways and tiny slipways for fishing boats run straight into the water, with waves lapping against the walls of the houses.
Wander around the district, exploring the main street that runs in parallel to the seafront and catching glimpses of the sea down each slipway. You’ll find a few B&B’s, shops and restaurants with platforms right over the water – a spectacular spot during both the day and night – but this is no ‘fake’ tourist town. Strike up a conversation with the fishermen, find a spot to enjoy an aperitivo or swordfish sandwich and watch the boats pass by, or explore the small streets with views framed by flowerpots and washing hanging from balconies.
CASTELLO RUFFO
The first castle built on the site of Scilla’s Castello Ruffo was back in the beginning of the 5th century B.C., when the city of Reggio was of significance in the region, during the tyranny of Anaxilas. Tyrrhenian pirates were defeated and the fortress at Scilla, with its key position, became a focal point for controlling the seas. Clashes with pirates and many sieges followed in the coming years, and the structure we see today is an amalgamation of architectures, through conquests and demolitions, starting from the Etruscans to the Magna Graecia period, to the Romans, who also settled here. Modern excavations show us only the walls of the 9th century San Pancrazio monastery, and in 1060 it became a military fortress. Further fortifications and additions came through the 13th, 15th and 16th centuries, and the strong earthquakes of 1783 and 1903 did not spare the castle, requiring extensive restorations. Given its dominant position on the landscape, a lighthouse was also added in 1913, which is still active and used by the navy.
In more recent history, the structure has been used as apartments by state officials, then a youth hostel. Now it remains an important cultural centre for the town, hosting meetings and exhibitions, and restored for visitors to appreciate.
The castle of Scilla sits on the rocky promontory that forms the focal point of the town. As well as entering the castle and exploring its walls, there are multiple points around the town from which you can enjoy fantastic views of this fortification. Walk along the fishing port to see the castle behind the lines of rowing and fishing boats in the blue marina. Enjoy the beach and wade through the shallows with views of Castello Ruffo as your backdrop. Or soak in the views from Piazza San Rocco within Scilla’s historic centre, with a panorama that sweeps over all of the town’s rooftops and out to Sicily over the Tyrrhenian.
SCILLA BEACH
Scilla’s beach is a sweeping wide beach on the Marina Grande side of the historic town, from which you can enjoy spectacular views of the castle. It’s the combination of charming town and seaside location which makes Scilla a perfect base for your holiday in Calabria – and with 800 metres of beach, walkable from anywhere in the town centre, you won’t have trouble finding a spot to relax and soak up the sunshine.
It’s a beach of pebbles – so bring your beach shoes if you’re wanting to stride along the shoreline – but this makes its waters some of the clearest you’ve ever seen. Choose from the free public beach areas, or rent a sunbed and parasol in the summer months. We wouldn’t blame you for not wanting to move from your spot, with views out to Sicily and on a clear day the Aeolian Islands, and then the most spectacular sunsets.
SWORDFISH OF SCILLA
There has been a tradition in Messina and along this stretch of the Violet Coast in Calabria (including in the town of Scilla) of swordfishing, going back over two thousand years. Here the fish swim (often in pairs) through the strong currents.
At just 3km wide at its closest point, the Strait of Messina is a popular passing point for these large fish. The swordfish are known as the ‘Emperors of the Straits’, and these majestic fish typically weigh about 100kg, and are about two metres long. One third of the fish’s length is made up of its strong ‘sword’ extending from its upper jaw, and they can travel at astounding speeds up to 100 km per hour. They usually spend most of their time in the deep ocean, only visiting the shallower waters of the Tyrrhenian to mate. From May to August, fishermen head out and still catch the fish using traditional methods, on boats with a mast 25 metres high, where a member of the crew will climb to look for the fish and direct the boat.
The modern method of hunting the swordfish isn’t much different from the ancient traditions – it is much more similar to a ‘hunt’ than other fishing methods of line or net. From the high mast, fish are spotted and then harpooned from above, by a fisherman stood on a long bridge which sticks out metres in front of the specially designed passarella boat.
EXPLORE THE COSTA VIOLA
Scilla is a wonderful spot to base yourself for a few days, in a holiday apartment or small B&B within its historic centre. From here, you can enjoy the delights of the Costa Viola (the Violet Coast). Discover its beaches, explore its history, get active out on the water with diving, snorkelling or boating, and take to hiking trails to enjoy the dramatic landscape that plummets into the deep violet coloured water. Read our full guide on things to do on the Costa Viola. During your stay in Scilla, take the time to also visit Reggio Calabria, the capital of the region.
