The Violet Coast (La Costa Viola) winds down the west coast of Calabria, southern Italy, stretching for 35 kilometres from Palmi to San Giovanni. This section of shoreline is within the Reggio Calabria province of Calabria, and is characterised by its dramatic rocky coastline and deep blue sea, whose reflections appear almost purple – giving the area its name.
Few holiday makers know of the area – although towns such as Scilla offer scenes reminiscent of the renowned Cinque Terre. It’s part of the undiscovered southern region of Calabria, and even less visited by foreign holidaymakers than the turquoise beaches of la Costa degli Dei.
The area is tranquil – a coastline dotted with fishing villages and stretches of beach. Along much of the coast, the hillside tumbles almost directly into the ocean, offering spectacular views if you choose to head out onto the calm blue waters. During your stay on the Violet Coast, discover grottos and rocky headlands, trek along coastal pathways, learn the history and Greek legend of the charming towns, watch the iconic sword fishing boats traverse the Strait of Messina, and sample the freshest seafood in restaurants that jut right over the sea.
WHERE TO VISIT ON LA COSTA VIOLA
Scilla is the most famous town on the Costa Viola – a seaside fishing village of two parts, balancing the best of both worlds. The town’s medieval castle offers a fantastic viewpoint in the central point, and the historic town stretches down both sides. To the right is the Chianalea district – formerly the fishing families’ dwellings which sit directly on the seafront. Here you’ll find charming cobbled streets and restaurants with platforms jutting right over the sea. To the left of the castle sweeps the beach.
Also to visit along the Violet Coast are seaside towns such as Bagnara Calabra. Seminara and Palmi town centres are less picturesque – having been hit twice over history with strong earthquakes that destroyed much of the old towns – but they still preserve their traditions, and Seminara is known for being home to more of Calabria’s sculptures from the 1500’s than anywhere else in the region.
One of our favourite spots to visit along the Costa Viola is a secret to all but those in the know – and you could argue that it offers the most spectacular view in the whole of Calabria. Monte Sant’Elia is a viewpoint high on the hillside above the town of Palmi. Approaching the viewpoint by road, you’d be forgiven for wondering where you were winding off to – it doesn’t seem very spectacular. But park the car and walk to the edge – you’ll find three crosses on the hillside and sweeping views all around to the town below and of course the coast. We love visiting at dusk – catching both the sunset over the sea, and then watching as the lights below turn on and the sky turns to violet and then a deep blue to match the sea. Grabbing a takeaway pizza from Palmi and then heading up to the viewpoint to enjoy it and the view is one of our favourite things to do after a day on the Costa Viola.
BEST BEACHES ON THE COSTA VIOLA
The coastline is characterized by its seaside towns and coves with sweeping beaches, against the dramatic backdrop of the mountains that plummet into the water.
Arguably the best beach along the Costa Viola is at Scilla – curving round from the Castello Ruffo and plenty of room on the wide beach itself. There are private lidos if you’d like a sunbed, or areas free to the public. The beach isn’t fine sand – small grain pebbles keep the water crystal clear. What makes it spectacular is its position right in front of the castle – we like to float along or paddle in the water, in blue clear waters with fish swimming around your toes, with views of Scilla’s medieval castle and historic centre perched above.
Along the rest of the coast, you can explore the bays at Tonnara di Palmi and Bagnara Calabra, as well as small coves along the way. Divers will enjoy the beach and diving spots at Seminara – a sandy cove in the midst of rocks and towering cliffs.
THINGS TO DO ON THE COSTA VIOLA
As well as pottering around the charming streets of the Costa Viola’s seaside towns, there are plenty of activities to get up to during your trip. The best things to do on the Costa Viola (Violet Coast) include hiking, boating, diving, watersports and fishing.
The Straits of Messina separate Calabria from Sicily – just 3km wide at its closest point – and it is here that you’ll spot the iconic ‘Passerella’ fishing boats, with towering masts, which catch the famous fresh swordfish. During your time on the Costa Viola, as well as watching the fishing boats, you can head out and join in the experience. Board the Passerella boat for the true swordfish experience, or head out on a smaller boat to discover the variety of seafood and see behind the scenes in this working fishing village.
Even if you’re not fishing, it’s a spectacular day trip to head out on the water along the Costa Viola. You can hire motorized boats from multiple spots along the coast, and explore the midnight blue waters and dramatic coastline. Or head out on kayaks – a fantastic way to discover the coves and caves, where the water glows and casts a blue hue.
For an alternative activity that keeps your feet firmly on solid ground, take a hike along the coastline. The tracciolino path is approximately 7km long and takes around 2 and a half hours to walk at a steady pace – winding south from Palmi – and offers unbeatable vistas across the Strait of Messina and towards Sicily’s eastern coast and Mount Etna, as well as out to the Aeolian Islands. It’s easy going underfoot – not just for experienced walkers – and words can’t do justice to describe the views from the path that feels like it’s perched on the edge of the world, as the landscape tumbles into the sea.
WHAT TO EAT ON LA COSTA VIOLA
Given the area’s traditions going back thousands of years, trying the local swordfish is a must when you’re visiting the Costa Viola. It’s used in many local dishes, whether pan fried, roasted in the oven, in pasta dishes, and even in fantastic sandwiches. As well as the meaty textured steaks of pesce spada (sword fish), it’s no surprise that the coastline is also home to many fantastic seafood restaurants where you can taste all of the delights of the sea, including shellfish and octopus. You can’t beat the seafront restaurants in Scilla, with tables out over the water on wooden jetties – truly appreciating the sea.
With the coast’s proximity to the mountains, you can also taste the fruits of the land as well as the sea. As with all dishes in Calabria, the key is the fresh local produce – and you’ll find the best local cheeses, charcuterie meats, vegetables in olive oil, courgette flowers, and meat ragu pasta sauces from the pre-Aspromonte slopes.
HOW TO GET TO LA COSTA VIOLA
La Costa Viola is easy to access from the main E45 motorway which runs right down to the tip of Calabria’s toe. If you’re travelling to Calabria by air, you can fly to Lamezia Terme airport – Calabria’s biggest and approximately an hour’s drive from the Violet Coast. Or the airport of Reggio Calabria is just 30 minutes by car, and is a smaller airport serving domestic flights elsewhere in Italy. The close proximity to Reggio Calabria also means that road trippers can combine a trip to the Costa Viola with a stay in Sicily. A ferry connects the mainland to Messina in Sicily, with a schedule running multiple times a day and taking just 25 minutes.
There is also a train line which runs along the Costa Viola, with stations in Scilla, Bagnara and Palmi amongst others. Routes lead to Reggio Calabria, and you can also reach the Costa degli Dei and Tropea if you change at Rosarno.
When visiting the Costa Viola, we would recommend choosing to travel around by car. Car hire is the most cost-effective option, rather than relying on transfers, and will allow you to explore further than the train routes allow. But note that when choosing to stay in a seaside fishing town like Scilla, parking options can be limited right outside of your accommodation.
