Why you should travel to Calabria
96 million international tourists visit Italy every single year, so it will be no surprise that the land of la dolce vita is high on many travellers’ planning lists for 2023. Tourists arrive in droves to discover the ancient relics of Rome, glittering coastal towns of the Amalfi, and rolling vineyards of Tuscany.
But what about Calabria? As the toe to Italy’s heeled boot, it’s buried deep in the south – less than 2 miles over the water from the island of Sicily. It is little known to tourists, but has its own unique allure which means Calabria should be high on your bucket list for a trip in 2023.
1. Calabria’s beaches
At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the turquoise shores of Tropea were on a tropical and exotic continent, rather than here in Europe. With over 500 miles of coastline, Calabria has many beaches to choose from – from the sandy coves of the Coast of the Gods to the endless stretches of the Ionian coast, or the dramatic cliff formations of Arco Magno.
2. Italy’s least visited region
Italy is split into 20 unique regions, with a distance of over 900 miles between the north and south. So that’s a lot of Italy to explore. Calabria is one of the country’s most southern, covering an area of over 5,500 square miles, yet is the least visited by international tourists. In my books, that is exactly why any traveller with a love of Italian culture should visit. Step off the well-trodden trail and discover the real Italy of old.
3. Cucina povera
The key to the beauty of Calabria’s cuisine is often in its simplicity. Cucina povera in Italy (literally ‘the kitchen of the poor’), has led to some of the country’s most iconic dishes, with a frugal approach that maximises and savours every local ingredient. The methods originated from rural peasant populations and were born as a necessity, but to this day many of my favourite meals in Calabria have been the simplest. Try pasta con la mollica (pasta with breadcrumbs), or baccalà (salted cod).
4. The slow life
It sounds like a cliché, but if there’s one thing that the pandemic taught us, it’s the value in slowing down. Life may have returned to its frantic normality for many, but there’s no need to continue that with your vacations. Embrace the art of slow travel in Calabria. Forget racing around cities from one monument to another – instead adopt the art of the riposo and spend many an afternoon sauntering round tiny coastal villages and taking lazy lunches that stretch hours into the afternoon. Life in Calabria is simple, slow, and rural: the antidote so many of us need.
5. An eclectic history
Calabria sits as a peninsula that pokes out towards the centre of the Mediterranean, surrounded by the Ionian Sea on the east and the Tyrrhenian on the west. Over history this has led to the region having its fair share of invaders and settlers. It was once part of the Magna Grecia (Ancient Greece) empire, and you’ll also stumble on remnants of the Byzantine era, a Norman conquest, descendants of Albanian refugees, and even engravings from the Paleolithic times.
6. Its national parks
Calabria isn’t just all about the coastlines – it’s also home to three varied national parks. Starting in the north, the Pollino National Park is Italy’s largest, covering nearly 2,000 square kilometres. Green peaks dominate, with a terrain largely untouched, aside from mountaintop villages.
In contrast, Sila National Park offers a lush green plateau – think rolling green hills, dense forests and calm lakes. Then head to the deep south and the craggy mountains of the Aspromonte. Here is where Calabria feels its wildest – you can explore ghost towns of Roghudi and Pentedattilo, and soak up mountaintop views with the sea extending around three sides.
7. Add some spice
Hanging from doorways, growing in every garden, garnishing every table and spicing up your trip: in Calabria the chilli pepper is life. The warm climate and the need to preserve meats or flavour humble dishes led to the chilli pepper’s popularity, which has now become a symbol of the region.
Try la bomba – a jarred spicy pepper spread which pairs well with bread, tossed with pasta, or to garnish pretty much anything you like. And Calabria’s most famous export, the chilli infused ‘nduja sausage, has begun to grace our menus worldwide. But perhaps one of the best ways to enjoy this simple pleasure is straight off the plant and shaved onto your tomato-based pasta dish at the table. Seeds and all if you’re brave enough!
8. The hilltop villages
Seemingly defying the laws of gravity, many medieval villages of Calabria perch on hilltops and cascade down mountainsides, with a hotchpotch of red rooftops and what feels like a non-existence of planning laws. Each has its own culture, food, language and maze of alleyways to explore. Discover Badolato, Gerace and Stilo to the east, or Fiumefreddo Bruzio, Orsomarso and Amantea to the west.
9. Traditions and customs
I’ve always said that Italians (and especially the Calabrians) love any excuse for a good old procession. All year round, the calendar is filled with events, celebrations of food and dishes, live music, parades and more. What’s more, every tiny community has its own way of doing things, with rituals passed down through generations – from Easter flagellations to flowers laid through the streets to the chilli pepper festival.
10. Mealtimes
You may be sensing a running theme here… but come to Calabria for the food. And more specifically, for mealtimes. It’s not uncommon to be sat around a table with upwards of 20 other people, table strewn with dishes and glasses of course flowing with wine. And that’s just a typical family Sunday afternoon.
Mealtimes are an occasion, and living in Calabria I quickly learned that the first question you’re asked is, ‘Have you eaten?’ Why bother asking, ‘How are you?’ when the question of the stomach is at stake.
11. Local produce
Shockingly, I’m back on the topic of food again. This time celebrating the local produce which the Calabrian’s are proud to grow, cultivate and produce. Whilst in Calabria, you’ll eat from the land. Sip wine as you overlook the vineyards, visit countryside restaurants for meals straight from the vegetable garden, savour olive oil from the surrounding hills and eat swordfish at you watch the ships of the Violet Coast that caught them. And Tropea’s red onion has to be the most famous of the lot, now exported worldwide.
12. These views
Every village seems to offer a spectacular viewpoint to beat the last. I won’t say any more than these photos – but check out my top 5 viewpoints in Calabria.
13. Language and culture
With Calabria’s history of invasions and reinvasions comes a melting pot of cultures – and you can still see those roots zealously preserved when you explore the region today. Delve deep into the Aspromonte mountains for villages that speak an ancient Greek dialect, or venture into the Pollino for Arbëreshë villages preserving Albanian culture.
And it’s no exaggeration to say that every single village in Calabria has its own version of dialect. Can you believe that historically, villages such as Badolato even had two – a different language spoken to the north and south of a winding main street.
14. Year-round possibilities
Of course, you may want to visit Calabria during the summer months, for the beaches, buzz and balmy days. But what’s so fantastic about its varied terrain is that each season offers another delight. Visit during Spring and Autumn for a calmer experience, and take advantage of slightly cooler temperatures for walking and exploring. The locals may have been wrapped up in their winter woollies, but I’ve happily paddled in the sea and laid on the beach in March!
Catch the wine harvest (late September) or October’s olive harvest, or head for a winter escape for ski slopes with views of the sea. Sila’s steam train is another delight in winter, crossing through snowy landscapes.
15. That water
Tropea’s beach just deserved a second mention…
16. The people
Come for the beaches, enjoy the food, and stay for the people. In Calabria, I’ve been invited off the street and into strangers’ homes many times, and obviously force fed whatever’s cooking up on the stove! In this southern corner of Italy, the people are friendly and their arms are open – they do hospitality like no one else. It’s the welcoming nature of the locals that started my own love story with the region. Find out more here.
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